Reality Surpasses Fiction in Santa Cruz de Tenerife
The reality exceeded fiction during the Mass held at the Port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, marking the conclusion of Pope Leo XIV’s apostolic journey to Spain, which began on 6 June. Early in the day, the city awoke to an empty atmosphere, reminiscent of the empty streets during the pandemic, despite it not being Car-Free Day. Meanwhile, others at the Dársena de Los Llanos pondered how to comprehend such a massive turnout outside of Carnival season.
### A Day of Warmth
It was a day filled with heat, both physical and spiritual, particularly notable in the references to the local culture. Pope Leo XIV shed the shyness attributed to him in Rome, showing warmth and sharing smiles that conveyed comfort. Bishop Eloy Santiago captivated the congregation with a speech of gratitude for the Pope’s visit at the end of the Mass.
### “The Pope is Also Canarian”
Kicking off with a statement reminiscent of the finest Carnival murgas, he declared, “You have earned the affection of the noble people of La Gomera, El Hierro, La Palma, and Tenerife who constitute our diocese,” which sparked applause from the audience of over 35,000 pilgrims.
Bishop Santiago concluded, “The Pope is one of ours; we feel this and will remember it, Your Holiness. Pope Leo XIV is also a Canarian, and he will always have a home in these islands.” This was met with a resounding ovation.
### A Canary Island Liturgical Experience
The Mass, which started nearly an hour late, was preceded by a performance from Los Sabandeños, who delighted the crowd with traditional songs. The group performed an isa to the Virgin of Candelaria, another in honour of the Christ of La Laguna, and enthusiastically sang “Call Me Guanche”. This was just the beginning, as they followed up with performances from the Catholic group led by Alejandro Abrante.
There was a moment of uncertainty with the absence of the Virgin of Candelaria early on, despite her departure from the Villa Mariana in her urn at four in the morning. This was soon forgotten as she was positioned to the right of the altar. Shortly after, the talented Chago Melián sang his umpteenth rendition of the “Ave Maria,” encouraging attendees to adapt the lyrics to the Virgin of Candelaria, the Christ of La Laguna, and even to the Pontiff himself. Once again, there was an ovation.
### A Celebration Rich in Symbolism
From eleven until one, screens allowed everyone to follow the Pope’s arrival, with the director of the Orfeón La Paz de La Laguna, Juan Felipe Rodríguez, seizing the opportunity to present the Gospel’s Alleluia.
The Eucharist was overflowing with details, starting with a composition by Irene Fariña, “Ad Lucem” (Towards the Light). She is the sister of the conductor of the band Las Candelas and of the Insular Band of Tenerife, which provided the musical foundation for the service. Her mother, Silvia Alonso, also arranged music for the Hymn of the Pope’s Visit to Spain. The entrance song, composed by the Gomero versador Eduardo Duque and Orotava organist Juan Luis Bardón, titled “Lift Your Eyes to Love,” was also premiered.
### A Social Message on a Touristic Island
Crucial for connecting with over 35,000 pilgrims from the diocese of Tenerife was the local tone set from the outset. This was not only reflected in the songs from Los Sabandeños or as the Pope entered the venue, accompanied by the sounds of chácaras and gomero drums, but also in the deacon’s choice to sing the Gospel in local dialect. He addressed the crowd with, “The Lord be with you,” rather than the more formal “you”. Pope Leo XIV maintained this level of intimacy, addressing his “brother” Eloy Alberto Santiago during his homily.
In his particular “letter from Apostle Leo to the people of Tenerife at the Dársena de Los Llanos,” the Pope took a strong stance, contrasting Tenerife’s touristic vocation with the plight of those who cross the Atlantic in search of a better future. “It is crucial not to reduce everything to commerce and profit,” he cautioned, emphasising Tenerife’s touristic role not merely as an economic activity but as an opportunity for genuine encounter between different peoples and cultures from around the world.
Leo XIV won the crowd’s affection when he said, “Dear brothers, thank you for who you are and what you do, turning this island into a place where we find the heart of Christ in the friendly and welcoming faces of individuals and brotherly communities.”
### A Day to Remember
The ceremony went beyond mere words as it featured readily recognisable participants during the prayers and offering. Some attendees dressed in traditional Canarian attire, including the director of the La Salle-San Ildefonso School and the General Superior of the Bethlemite Sisters.
As the heat intensified or certain musical pieces seemed to linger, it offered the chance to observe a venue that appeared adorned in white, with a well-organised crowd distribution. In this manner, attendees from El Hierro mingled with those from La Gomera, with a particularly notable group from la Paz y la Unión, of La Cuesta, alongside the military parish.
The number of extraordinary ministers distributing Communion captured attention, particularly with the involvement of women in the service. Numerous instances arose due to the high temperatures during a Mass that extended until nearly half-past two. With the delay and warmth, even the zenith light over the altar went unnoticed.
The sanctity of the moment, hosting the Pope in Tenerife, already provided a sense of pride, creating an unforgettable religious experience.
The Pope walked almost a kilometre to greet the public and concluded with a private reception before departing for Los Rodeos, while the crowd left the venue on a Friday that will forever be etched in history.
