Yesterday, Tuesday, transpired in the culinary scene of Gran Canaria with its usual rhythm. However, within the circles of chefs, food critics, and even on social media, there was ongoing discussion and surprise over Repsol’s decision to exclude the Gran Canaria restaurants from receiving any new Suns this year. “It’s unfair and strange,” remarked a chef who, wishing to remain anonymous, pointed out that there are much more captivating venues in Gran Canaria than those being recognised.
While Gran Canaria was overlooked at the event hosted on Monday at the El Batel Auditorium and Congress Palace in Cartagena (Murcia), Etéreo by Pedo Nel (Santa Cruz de Tenerife) and La Cúpula (Adeje) were inducted into the two Sol club. Additionally, five establishments from Tenerife such as Kiki Japanese (SC de Tenerife); Lajar de Bello (Arona); Il Bocconcino by Royal Hideaway or San Hô and Char (Adeje) attained their first sphere. The list was further enriched by 8Aborigen in Valverde (El Hierro) and SeBe in Costa Teguise (Lanzarote).
Off the record, a renowned resident chef in Gran Canaria depicted the guide’s verdict to deprive Island establishments of new accolades in 2024 as an act of disregard. Furthermore, the withdrawal of an award from a Canarian restaurant, previously lauded by Repsol, stirred up distress among industry professionals. “Unfathomable,” lamented another chef from Gran Canaria. Meanwhile, CanaryFoodies, a Canarian gastronomy project with nearly 40,000 Instagram followers, expressed incredulity after the 2024 award announcements.
«We retire to bed with a lingering thought… Not even a single new Sun for Gran Canaria? So many accolades for Tenerife? Are the accolades biased towards the neighbouring island? Or is Tenerife’s dawn simply brighter? The criteria elude us,” they mused about the omitted establishments and those that made the cut.
Collaborative Gastronomy at Ithaca 57
The news of no new accolades in 2024 for Gran Canaria coincided with a collaborative dining experience at the Ítaca 57 restaurant in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (c/ León Tolstoi, 3) featuring renowned chefs David Rivero, former head chef of Kabuki in Telde, and Óscar Mayer from Las Palmas, the current head chef of Ítaca 57 and former culinary director at Enjoy BCN, which previously held 2 Michelin stars, 3 Repsol soles, and was ranked among the top 10 restaurants globally in 2020 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
The dining room at Ithaca 57 was packed for both lunch and dinner services, underscoring the acclaim for Gran Canaria chefs and the diners’ enthusiasm towards the island’s culinary scene, which has received substantial institutional backing, spearheaded by the Gran Canaria Cabildo in recent years.
Óscar Mayer and David Rivero delighted attendees with dishes like Ithaca salad with bluefin tuna; a selection of makis and niguiris; Aquanaria sea bass tataki with karashi ponzu; and fried eggs with red tuna tartare. The dining experience concluded with crepes in orange sauce and matcha tea accompanied by vanilla and black sesame ice cream. The dishes were paired with Bolet Brut Ecológico Reserva cava, Erre de Herrero Verdejo, and Alegre Valgañón Clarete wines.
«The events at Ithaca 57 were an incredible success during both sittings,” remarked chef and entrepreneur Juan Santiago, one of the establishment’s partners. “We were pleasantly surprised when, within four hours of the announcement, all reservations were fully booked.”
Santiago also shared his thoughts on Repsol’s disappointing decision in 2024. “It’s shocking given the Island’s exceptional culinary landscape, with several deserving establishments that were merely commended. I’d spotlight Ceniza in the south of Gran Canaria, or Anteo and Bento in the capital, among others. While the awards have garnered significant attention this year, it’s perplexing why Tabaiba lost its sun,” he concluded.
