Paula gazes at the snow in awe, as if it were something extraordinary. It is only natural; it’s her first time seeing and feeling it. Valentina, the mother of this young girl from Tenerife, relays the experience as she prepares to slide down a slope, much like many others at Teide National Park. Alongside them are Valentina’s partner, Juan, and his daughter, Raquel. They have arrived at the San José Mines via an alternate route thanks to Juan’s all-terrain vehicle, a remnant from his days as a forestry guide, through tracks that originate in La Montañeta, in Garachico. They have packed all the essentials for a day of enjoyment, including sledding, making snowmen, and throwing snowballs. Their supplies feature a delightful variety for snacks: hot chocolate, avocados from Juan’s farm, cheese, ham, pastries, and even a lovely white wine.

The scenery at the San José Mines is so snowy that it resembles not a plain on Mars but rather a scene from Lapland. After 3:00 p.m., when the last access route to Teide, La Esperanza, reopened at noon, this spot has become a popular gathering place for both locals and visitors, likely due to its abundant snow cover that makes it the whitest area in the entire National Park. The snowflakes have started to melt following the flurries on Christmas Eve and New Year’s, yet here they remain sufficiently preserved, providing slopes for a thrilling descent using car mats, plastic bags, or even buggies for the daring adventurers.

Being a weekday, and following several days with some accesses closed due to icy conditions, there were no significant crowds yesterday atop Tenerife. In fact, no snow operations were arranged, which meant minimal traffic jams, save for the occasional delays around the San José Mines. Consequently, Inma and Yeray were motivated to go along with their daughters Carmen and Gema. “We checked the situation on the Tenerife Cabildo websites and saw that they would be opening access through La Esperanza, so we said: Let’s head to Teide! And here we are,” Inma shares in El Portillo. The family has come from Barranco Hondo in Candelaria, and while this activity is not new to them, they remain delighted by the fact that on an island like Tenerife one can experience both snow and beach in the same day, living in a place where winter and summer coalesce within a mere distance. “We take advantage of our holiday to make sure the girls have a great time. “Them and us,” Yeray mentions after climbing the slope with one of his daughters to dive down again.

At the Siete Cañadas café, there’s a queue for a café con leche to warm up a bit. The clouds obscure the sun, and Teide itself, ensuring temperatures do not rise beyond 13 degrees. However, the unfavourable conditions do not deter snow enthusiasts, who continue to arrive, albeit without the usual crowds found during holidays when Teide wears its white coat. Among them are Alejandro and his son Aarón, who have travelled from the northern town of Icod de los Vinos. “This is brilliant; there’s more snow than I anticipated, more than in previous snowfalls,” Alejandro remarks while continuing to bounce about with Aarón on a mat. “I took advantage of a day off to come with my son to have some fun. Afterward, we’ll stop by a café for a drink. “We are thoroughly enjoying ourselves,” this Tenerife local expresses.

Nearby, Panamanian Alfonso, his wife Argentine Yesica, and their three children pose proudly next to a snowman. They ventured from Garachico via the La Orotava highway. “Mum, my hand is freezing,” one of the girls complains. Alfonso and Yesica claim they’re “more Canarian than gofio” now. He has been on the island for 34 years, while his wife has been here for 18. “We didn’t bring the traditional Argentine empanadas because we were short on time and had to prepare quickly, otherwise…” Yesica clarifies, adding that they do have hot chocolate and sandwiches in the car. “We saw on the news that it snowed heavily and that access was starting to open, so we spontaneously organised this trip. It’s a nice way to spend a different day with the family and enjoy a setting quite reminiscent of the festive season,” Yesica explains.

Some individuals revel in the snow with such exuberance that their joyous expressions are evident. Take Dagger, a corgi frantically running around as if living her happiest day, offering friendly greetings to everyone who passes by. She’s accompanied by Jorge from Tenerife, alongside his girlfriend Lina. Snow does not shock her in the least; being from Lithuania, she’s used to much harsher cold. Nonetheless, she remarks, “There’s more snow here on Teide than in Lithuania.” “Yes, we’re one of those typical lovers of the snow who make a point to climb Mount Teide when it snows,” Jorge admits.

The snow is not expected to linger much longer. Nevertheless, the Tenerife Cabildo has urged caution and compliance with regulations, particularly traffic laws such as avoiding parking in restricted zones that could lead to blockages on the roads that run through the National Park. This also pertains to those who collect litter. “Look, we have a bag to dispose of the rubbish in the bin,” Inma states, while her daughter Paula keeps her gaze fixed on the snow in the picturesque scene that Teide presents amidst the Christmas break.