Many years ago, the La Orotava Valley, under the Taoro menceyato, served as the focal point of the Island, concentrating its highest power. It constituted one of the nine regions that formed the Island prior to the Castilian conquest, which endured for nearly a century, from 1402 to 1496. This lush and fertile area starkly contrasted with the arid and parched landscapes of the South. The local populace navigated ravines and inclines daily in pursuit of sustenance, and on one such slope, specifically Tamaide, located between La Orotava and Santa Úrsula, lies one of the Island’s most significant archaeological sites.
It is no mere coincidence that a short distance from the site where Humboldt paused in 1799 to admire the splendour of the La Orotava Valley, this same area was chosen centuries earlier as the residence of Mencey Bencomo, the king of kings and a symbol of Guanche defiance. High-ranking leaders frequently inhabit prominent locations, so it is unsurprising that this was once the cave occupied by the valiant Guanche warrior who defeated Alfonso Fernández de Lugo in the infamous Matanza de Acentejo.
The abode of Mencey
These consist of two large basalt caverns connected by a passageway. The initial chamber measures three metres deep, six metres in length and over 2.5 metres high, with an entrance through an irregular portal. The second chamber extends about eight metres long, mirroring the dimensions of the first and opening on its western side towards the ravine. The two caves are connected by a narrow passage. Besides the caves, the complex features three natural shelters that have been repurposed for livestock storage in historical times. Adjacent to the caves is the Tamaide spring.
However, despite its historical and archaeological significance, a considerable thirty-two years had to elapse after its designation as an Asset of Cultural Interest before, in 2018, it began receiving the attention it duly warranted. That year, Miguel Ángel Clavijo, who still serves as the general director of Heritage for the Government of the Canary Islands, alongside the then-Cabildo councillor, Josefa Mesa, instituted the revitalisation of a severely deteriorated site that had accumulated significant amounts of manure over centuries of use as a goat shelter.
This restoration effort unearthed vital elements for studying that epoch, including animal teeth, ornamental and storage artefacts, ceramics, wall decorations, and clay beads, some of considerable size.
Despite the efforts from both the Cabildo and the Government of the Canary Islands at that time to ensure proper preservation and advance an intriguing project for the establishment of interpretation centres for Humboldt and the Cueva del Mencey Bencomo, the situation has grown increasingly complicated due to its private ownership. Miguel Ángel Clavijo notes that “until the dispute between the La Orotava City Council and the proprietors is settled, limited progress can be made on this ambitious project to restore the entire area, linking these two pivotal figures of our history in a prime location. What is that remarkable viewpoint over the La Orotava Valley? The heritage and cultural spaces that encapsulate events related to the history of Tenerife serve to inform citizens about their own narrative and their Island.
A little over a year ago, following a meeting between the mayor of La Orotava and the regional director of Heritage, the intention was expressed that during this term, these interpretation centres could be inaugurated “with historical information enabling visitors to gain a better understanding of our past, the historical process, and its significance for the Town and the Island.” It was then proposed that these interpretive centres would also serve as educational resources for schoolchildren from various educational institutions across the Canary Islands.
Concerning Guanche culture, Clavijo believes “Tenerife society recognises who the Island’s inhabitants were prior to the arrival of the Castilians” and maintains optimism regarding the public’s interest in learning about our history, emphasising the considerable progress achieved in this area. There’s a tremendous effort to incorporate Canarian content into educational curricula, and the Heritage sector benefits from the role of coordinators working in this field. Presently, there is a vast array of information stemming from rigorous research into the Guanche world. Furthermore, the Archaeological Museum of Tenerife, although in need of a comprehensive overhaul regarding its exhibition content, aids in comprehending that segment of our history, showcasing a collection of mummies from that era that captivates interest due to their fascinating nature.
Mencey Bencomo
As Miguel Ángel Clavijo recalls, “Mencey Bencomo is an extraordinarily significant historical figure who must be remembered in Tenerife for being a protector of what Guanche resistance symbolised.”
Bencomo led the opposition against the Castilians until defeating them in the aforementioned Matanza de Acentejo, a title that endured even after the conquest. The Mencey strategised to encircle the Castilians in the Acentejo ravine, dispatching his brother Tinguaro with three hundred warriors through the highlands to split the invading army, while he commanded the majority of Guanche forces that would assault the front lines.
In a subsequent encounter, Bencomo’s fortune waned and, despite confronting the invaders once more, he was vanquished in the battle of Aguere, marking the end of the conquest, and it is at this point that this Mencey fades from memory. According to historians, emboldened by the earlier victory, Bencomo intended to tackle the conquerors on the plains near the Laguna, unwittingly sending three hundred to four hundred warriors towards Añazo via the Tahodio ravine to obstruct the retreat of the Castilian troops. The Mencey then delineated his forces into three divisions: the centre, led by himself; the right flank, by Acaimo de Tacoronte; and the left flank, by Tinguaro. After hours of combat, the invaders triumphed. Clavijo cites differing theories concerning the demise of this formidable warrior, noting that “some historians assert that he perished in that battle, while others contend that he vanished in the highlands of Tenerife.”
Clavijo underscores the notion that “Tenerife is cherished more when its history is understood, achieved not by over-mystifying it, but by presenting the truth. In terms of Guanche culture, it involves recognising the journey of a human community that dates back over 2,000 years. The Guanches persisted post-conquest, with land allocations benefiting many of them, leading to their integration into Hispanic culture — the cultural milieu into which the ancient inhabitants of the Island were incorporated and which they contributed to and enhanced.
In this context, a particularly intriguing study by Yulia Miteva, a Spanish professor at the University of Viliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria and invited by the University of La Laguna, provides enlightening insights about this integration process. Miteva’s research suggests that “the old Guanche elite, the menceyes or princes who governed the various territories of Tenerife, managed to sustain their significant social and political positions and profited greatly from land allocations post-conquest.” According to the researcher, this evidence compellingly indicates that the cultural and linguistic transition through Castilianisation began significantly due to these leaders, who “were quite willing to form connections, through intermarriages with Castilians and Portuguese, to assimilate into the new socioeconomic structure.
Tenerife has recorded 5,437 Guanche sites in an inventory compiled by the Cabildo, which includes data gathered over 14 years of work by the Insular Historical Heritage Unit. Of this total, scattered archaeological artefacts have been found in 1,586 locations, and 1,089 residential caves, 670 hut floors, and 481 shelters have been identified.
The residence of our Mencey of Taoro is included in that historical inventory, and it is hoped that it will soon be accessible to visitors as a place to honour the legacy of those guardians of a territory that once belonged to them and whom they defended to the utmost.
Subscribe to continue reading
