The gastronomy found in the municipality of San Cristóbal de La Laguna mirrors that which can be enjoyed throughout Tenerife. Dishes such as ‘papas con mojo’, ‘carne de cochino’, and toasted gofio are among the most typical. However, there are also unique delicacies specific to the municipality. Notably, the famous ‘Laguneros’ sweets, which are layers of dough filled with ‘cabello de ángel’. Among other desserts, ‘leche asada’, pastries, oven-baked cookies, and ‘Frangollo’, made from corn flour with raisins, almonds, and honey, are particularly popular in the city’s surrounding districts.
Almost 50 traditional culinary practices are included in the UNESCO lists of intangible cultural heritage
Contrary to popular belief on social media and countless websites, the French baguette, couscous, and even Neapolitan pizza are not considered world heritage. The UNESCO lists do not recognise the dishes themselves but rather the cultural practices passed down through generations—many of which are related to food and drink.
“Traditional culinary practices, whether for daily life or special occasions, including rituals, social uses, or festive events, form a significant part of the intangible heritage globally,” states Fumiko Ohinata, secretary of the UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. “The Convention lists can be likened to a cookbook where we can share everything from appetizers to desserts, covering all kinds of dishes, drinks, and breads… fifty culinary practices are currently listed, eight of which are multinational,” she adds.
When we travel, we often consider not only the monuments and culture of a place but also its gastronomy and restaurants we wish to try, and La Laguna boasts a rich culinary tradition. The historic eatery, Casa de Comidas La Valencia, is located on La Carrera Street.
Traditional culinary practices are an important part of intangible heritage
Exploring these offerings can whet the appetite. Culinary practices occupy an increasingly significant place on the intangible heritage list. They include elements such as the art of Neapolitan pizzaioli, the craftsmanship and culture surrounding the French baguette, and the knowledge, practices, and traditions linked to the preparation and consumption of couscous, shared by Algeria, Morocco, Mauritania, and Tunisia. This is alongside the Mediterranean diet (encompassing Cyprus, Croatia, Spain, Greece, Italy, Morocco, and Portugal), traditional Mexican cuisine, the preparation and consumption of Peruvian ceviche, a raw fish marinated dish, and Haiti’s joumou soup.
Resources for Development
In addition to their cultural significance, these practices promote a varied diet and suitable nutrition for many societies while preserving ecosystems and maintaining genetic biodiversity. “Many culinary practices are founded on respect for seasonality, the use of local products, and the recycling of food waste. They also provide opportunities for exchange, conversation, and dialogue, thereby strengthening social cohesion,” explains Pier Luigi Petrillo, director of the UNESCO Chair in Intangible Cultural Heritage at the University of Rome Unitelma Sapienza, Italy.
Many culinary practices are based on respecting seasonality and using local products
A study conducted by this chair between 2018 and 2023 indicates that following the inclusion of the art of Neapolitan pizzaioli on the UNESCO list, pizza-making courses increased by 65.3%, accredited schools expanded by 33.5% (with 85% of them outside Italy), and participation in related associations also rose by 9.5%.
Luis Benito García, director of the Cider Chair of Asturias and professor of contemporary history at the University of Oviedo, Spain, believes that recognising the culture of Asturian cider will “promote its integration at all educational levels. Additionally, since it is linked to a productive sector, it will encourage the planting of apple trees, which can retain young people in rural areas, while protecting a sustainable, artisanal, and family-based industry.”
To delve deeper into this topic, UNESCO is developing an international atlas of food heritage and a digital platform to safeguard, promote, and transmit it to future generations. This project, funded by Saudi Arabia, aims to highlight the diversity of food practices as living heritage and their connections to sustainable development, sharing safeguarding examples from communities and countries around the world. It is expected to be launched by the end of 2026.
As summarised by anthropologist Miguel Hernández, “culinary practices intertwine history, memory, environmental management, cultural exchanges, economics, gender roles, and personal tastes, which allows us to consider intangible cultural heritage as a resource for development, ensuring food security and fostering community resilience in facing the challenges of modernity, globalisation, and climate change.”
