September brings to the islands an ancient aroma, a blend of damp earth, mild sunshine, and freshly cut grapes. It is the season of the grape harvest, when the wine presses come alive and the must flows generously, promising excellent wine. La Laguna has also experienced this harvest atmosphere. Its fertile, open valley has been home to vineyards for centuries, bestowing wealth, culture, and symbols upon the city of Aguere.
The History of Wine in La Laguna
In the dawn of colonisation, the lands surrounding the newly established city became blanketed with vines, particularly the Malvasia grape, which gained international fame. From Garachico and later Santa Cruz, barrels set sail for England, Flanders, and America, carrying not only a product but also the image of an island that made its presence felt at the most refined tables in Europe. At that time, La Laguna, as the capital, facilitated this trade and absorbed the prestige that came with its wines.
It is important to remember that the boundaries of La Laguna’s jurisdiction in those centuries included what are now municipalities like Tacoronte and Tegueste. Both, maintaining their unique identities since the 19th century, have exemplarily upheld the wine-growing tradition. Tacoronte lends its name to the first Denomination of Origin in the Canary Islands, Tacoronte-Acentejo, while Tegueste preserves in its rural landscape the living memory of the wine presses and vines. Although La Laguna is now a university and administrative city, its cultural identity still carries the memory of being a wine-producing town.
The Cultural Impact of Wine
The mark of wine can also be seen in art. In baroque altarpieces, grape clusters appear as an Eucharistic symbol, silver chalices are adorned with vine motifs, and stately homes still preserve cellars and courtyards where grapes were pressed. Wine not only supported the economy but also inspired ornaments, folk songs, and literary chronicles that extolled the quality of La Laguna’s wines.
The Decline of a Tradition
Over time, trade declined. Other wines, closer to European markets, gained prominence, and the crises of the 18th and 19th centuries diminished the significance of Malvasia. However, the culture of wine in the valley never completely vanished. Even today, strolling through the surroundings of La Laguna reveals corners where vines cling to the earth, silent witnesses to a time of splendour.
A Community Ritual
The grape harvest is not just an agricultural act; it is a communal ritual. It brought entire families together, celebrated the abundance of the land, and reinforced the identity of a community. In La Laguna, this spirit is associated with the September calendar, when the city breathed in the scent of must, and life seemed to renew itself with the new wine.
Today, as Tacoronte and Tegueste continue to cultivate vines facing the Atlantic, La Laguna retains in its streets, convents, and collective memory the traces of that era. Its walls and altarpieces, silent courtyards and wine presses, still remind us of a time when the entire valley smelled of must.
A Lasting Symbol
In Christian tradition, the vine represents more than just a crop; it is an image of the Gospel. “I am the true vine, and you are the branches,” says Jesus in the Gospel of John. It is no coincidence that in this land of vines and grape harvests, such a symbol resonates deeply. Just as the vine requires the patient care of the vine-dresser, so too does the human community need attention, tenderness, and collaborative effort to bear fruit. Wine, which here represented wealth and culture, remains a symbol of alliance, shared celebration, and new life.
This harvest season, it may be worthwhile to pause for a moment and listen to what that memory whispers. For the history of wine in La Laguna is not merely a thing of the past; it represents identity, culture, and the symbol of a community that has transformed the land into shared life. And that legacy, like fine wine, deserves to be savoured with respect and gratitude.
