An ice vendor at the North Pole, or perhaps one selling heaters during the height of summer in the Canary Islands. A convertible submarine, an electric sand timer, or a parachute full of holes. These are items that make little sense, much like a port devoid of a harbour or a beach that remains unfit for swimming for months. This absurdity is emblematic of one of the most historic municipalities of Tenerife: the port of La Cruz.
Portuense territory, the smallest municipality in the Canary Islands with just 8.7 square kilometres, has turned into a puzzle searching for resolution. The closure of Garden beach is nearing nine months. The date of July 3, when the closure was first announced, continues to drift further into the past, yet a solution to reopen the series of beaches that comprise this area (Playa Chica, Punta de la Salema, Punta Brava, Galán and Playa del Castillo) remains elusive.
As spring arrives and summer approaches, Playa Jardín prepares for its second summer season cloaked in closure for swimmers. A beach that cannot function as intended. The refreshing embrace of the shoreline is tantalisingly out of reach for those meandering about, or even for the sands of what used to be one of the most popular destinations for both locals and visitors alike.
Protests continue to unfold in the port of La Cruz, demanding an urgent resolution. This cannot possibly continue for Tenerife’s premier tourist destination, which is unable to keep pace with the southern part of the island, and without its main beach, it falters against competing locales departing from the northern region. The issue may be more widespread, as reports indicate sewage spills in another notable area.
Protest against the closure of Garden beach / María Pisaca
San Telmo Beach and Lake Martiánez in jeopardy
The latest reports from Canary Islands, conducted by Elitoral, have heightened concerns among the residents of Portuense. Although the levels of sewage spills have not yet reached thresholds warranting the closure of additional beaches, the situation is troubling for both the small San Telmo beach and the Tourist Complex of Lago Martiánez Pools.
This concern is not new, as a 2022 report had previously flagged the situation in the Portuense municipality, while swimming was still permitted at Playa Jardín. Who knows whether, had action been taken after that report, people could still enjoy the coast of Puerto de la Cruz as they once did. The predicament is identified at sampling point MM8, with the report stating: “The discovery of faecal contamination at point MM8 located in an area influenced by the outflow from the San Telmo fire station is particularly alarming.”
This site is situated directly in front of the small Portuense beach. Here, there are also natural pools frequented by bathers in the vicinity, which boasts high hotel occupancy rates.
A port without a harbour is meaningless
The absurd reality of the port of La Cruz is a situation steeped in history. With such a name, one might presume it to be one of the principal ports of the Canary Islands… but that is not the case. It is, in fact, the port without a harbour, and there have been decades of anticipation regarding various commitments made by different institutions.
The municipality possesses only its old, though historic, pier as a point dedicated to the movement of vessels. Locals who have called this port home for life feel that it has been neglected, a far cry from when it used to be the most visited spot in Tenerife, the beating heart of tourism on the island. The absurdity starts with its name and continues along its coastline. The port cannot regain its former glory if its shore is not properly maintained.
