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Home El Dia

The Rise of Black Potatoes: From Novelty to Gourmet Delicacy

December 24, 2024
in El Dia
Reading Time: 6 mins read
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The Rise of Black Potatoes: From Novelty to Gourmet Delicacy
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The Christmas Eve dinner is a beloved tradition that consistently occurs on December 24. The Recova de Santa Cruz this Monday, the day before this significant occasion, was bustling with individuals searching for the finest fresh produce. The assurance of locating high-quality items is present, with over 200 stalls; eight dedicated to meat, 22 focused on fruits and vegetables, and 15 fishmongers. From traditional black potatoes, avocados, or prawns to exquisite gourmet selections aimed at culinary connoisseurs, alongside the intricate takeaway meals that have surged in popularity in recent times. All of this exists within a vibrant realm, accompanied by the potent aroma of spices and a delicate balance of supply and demand.

Miguel Luis, the manager of the Nuestra Señora de África Market Cooperative, serves as a guide. He identifies two types of clientele: those who visit to purchase items during this festive season—growing each year by around 5%—and those who, on December 24th and 25th, New Year’s Eve, or January 5th, Three Kings’ Eve, frequent La Recova, particularly the section filled with fishmongers—a well-known local presence, Nicomedes—“to socialise and enjoy drinks with friends.” He notes that “La Recova is increasingly trendy during Christmas,” a development that’s particularly evident since 2022, though its origins trace back to the pandemic period. He remarks, “Thousands of people gather here, leading to interventions by the Local Police who have had to employ security personnel to manage this overwhelming and unquantifiable crowd.” The primary demographic consists of individuals aged 30 and above, particularly those over 60, representing the typical customer base that appreciates “tradition, warmth, conviviality, and attentive service.” Luis underscores, “Prices have not escalated, though high-cost products are purchased which are not typically consumed for the remainder of the year.”

The Selection

The exploration commences at the Los Chicos fruit shop, which is bustling at this hour. José Juan Arbelo, known as Pepe, explains, “There are generational disparities here, as we see older and middle-aged patrons seeking traditional items for Christmas Eve, mainly meat, fish, black potatoes, avocados, or vegetables for soups,” and younger customers requesting gourmet options such as dill and chives. In our case, tradition prevails, with salted fish or rabbit being prepared. Toni Curbelo, who has been with Hermanas Tosco, a takeaway establishment, for 12 years, notes the increasing trend of ordering takeaway meals for Christmas Eve. Indeed, he himself will be having dinner “with whatever is prepared today (this Monday).” The staples include “veal round in special sauce, chicken soup, sirloin, salad, or devilled eggs.” He reminisces about “his grandmother’s Christmas soup.”

The Rise of Black Potatoes: From Novelty to Gourmet Delicacy

Activity within one of the butcher shops. / Maria Pisaca

Humberto, from the butcher shop that carries his name, assures the quality of the meat. He notes that “the demand for pork has surged significantly these days, though beef and poultry are also selling well.” He clarifies: “We stock pularda or capons; they are available on request.” He adds, “The competition is fierce, yet in terms of fresh produce, we are unmatched, both here and on the mainland.” The seasoned butcher highlights, “Historically, many customers would purchase in bulk to freeze, believing they were saving money, but that mindset has shifted in recent years.” He concludes, “At present, a kilo of beef phyllo is priced at 14.80 euros, down from 18 euros.”

David shares management responsibilities at Frutería Precio Justo, alongside his brother Javier Díaz Martel. Their father, now retired, began working at the Market at 15 and is currently 83. He instilled in David a passion for this trade, and from the age of seven, he would use a wheelbarrow to deliver groceries to nearby customers. He promotes: “Our casino potatoes at 2.20 euros are the best for wrinkling, and the La Palma avocado is just 3 euros.” Toñi Rodríguez, from Frutas Toñi y Pili, suggests “the best and most affordable black potatoes, priced at 10.90 euros per kilo,” while manoeuvring goods through the Central Patio.

The Demand

75% of those spoken to by EL DÍA plan to dine tonight with family or friends. The average cost per person is between 20 and 35 euros, representing the typical expenditure for this selection of Canarians. Take María Victoria de Miguel, who is dining at a friend’s place. She intends to bring her dish: ham and cheese rolls accompanied by a special sauce. She will also be on the lookout for German Apple Strudel Cake for dessert.

The president of the Cabildo, Rosa Dávila, inaugurates an exhibition of dinners from Tenerife and the Canary Islands. She summarises: “Very traditional and featuring local products, such as avocados and tomatoes in the salad. We have divided our tasks at home for preparations, including chicken broth, leg with black chips, seafood (prawns and shrimp), and in my case, since I excel at baking, a Victoria sponge cake with lemon and meringue.”

There are numerous other options, like that of Luis: “Avocado cocktail with shrimp, Canarian cheese cream with sautéed chard, grilled Canarian mushrooms, black potato gnocchi Bolognese with black pork, and for dessert, flambéed banana served with vanilla ice cream.” The expected cost is approximately 35 euros per person.

“Soup and whatever comes up at my grandmother’s place,” comments a regular at La Recova. Sirloin, prawns, wrinkled potatoes, beef phyllo.…The list is extensive.

From the South, Armando suggests “goat meat, black potatoes, serrano ham—from the shoulder—and prawns. And, naturally, mum’s bubango cream.”

Chano from Ofra adds: “Prawn soup, baked potatoes, skewers Basque-style with salmon, serrano ham, or chistorras.”

Yeray from La Laguna recommends a menu of “meatballs stuffed with bacon, chorizo and traditional grandmother’s carrot, with starters of salmon or shredded meat.” We continue feasting until two or three days later, almost reaching New Year’s Eve.

Humberto outlines his offerings from Candelaria: “As tradition dictates in our family, we start with chicken broth complemented by béchamel and fried bread hash with garlic, egg, and Iberian. For the second course, salted fish with pepper, akin to the lyrics of the murga, plus salad tartlets—the star of the meal. Lastly, for dessert, sweet potato trout.”

Finally, Emma, from a renowned gastronomic hotspot like La Palma, offers a recommendation: “A traditional dish of ours is picadillo soup, often mingling with newer recipes like ham bread, even though we aren’t Venezuelans.” Her dinner today includes starters of avocados filled with tuna, shrimp gypsy arm, ham, serrano, and cheese bread; for the first course, minced soup; followed by grilled pork with sweet potatoes for the main course, ending with nougat cake and festive sweets. For those who avoid meat, there will be extras of vegetable soup and a salmon dish.

Guidelines

The General Directorate of Public Health issued recommendations on Monday aimed at ensuring your diet remains as balanced and nutritious as possible over these festive days. One of the suggestions is to prioritise seasonal and locally sourced products.

As for financial considerations, Raúl Alonso, secretary of the Spanish Consumers Union (UCE), highlights a 6% yearly increase in food prices during this period. He notes that “purchasing food isn’t straightforward, yet planning ahead can mitigate costs. Due to supply and demand economics, prices for meat, fish, and seafood tend to rise as the festive dates approach. Historically, they then adjust between Christmas and New Year’s Eve, only to increase once more. It is possible to manage expenses better whilst sticking to the essentials of holiday meals.

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ingredient. “A chicken can vary significantly these days; it merely relies on the cooking method, as it has the potential to transform into a luxury meat.”

Hospitals

Public hospitals will present special menus on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. The University Hospital of the Canary Islands (HUC) has proposed a starter of chicken and beef soup; for the main course, beef tenderloin with demi-glace sauce, complemented by cheese wanton, vegetable vol-au-vent, and crispy beetroot with delightful potatoes. The dessert options include grilled cake or apple flan. On Christmas Day, diners can enjoy watercress cream with palm honey and semi-cured cheese; salmon with cider and dill served on a bed of black rice, followed by flavoured cakes for dessert. Meanwhile, patients at the Nuestra Señora de Candelaria Hospital will be served a festive Lyonnais dish with pumpkin cream and cider; sea bass on the back with a sweet potato side, concluding with a fruit cocktail and a Christmas assortment accompanied by a glass of cider. The Christmas lunch menu will feature a seafood soup, Angus sirloin in Spanish demi-glace sauce, served with roasted vegetables and a fruit salad.

Municipal Shelter

Today, the Santa Cruz City Council will provide users at the Municipal Reception Centre (CMA), the shelter, with a special dinner: surimi salad with fresh pineapple and pink sauce, followed by cod with onions served with steamed potatoes, and for dessert, chocolate brownie, Christmas assortment, and an array of soft drinks. On Christmas Day, lunch will include chicken soup, turkey breast topped with apple sauce, accompanied by steamed potatoes, lagoon-style sweets, and soft drinks.

Away from Home

On the Island, there are also choices for dining out on Christmas Eve. For instance, chef Lucas Maes from Zumaque in Puerto de la Cruz presents a diverse and extensive menu for 110 euros, excluding drinks. Zoco, located in Los Cristianos (Arona), under the supervision of chef Samuel Hernández, offers a menu tonight priced at 40 euros for adults and 25 for children, featuring a comprehensive menu with live entertainment provided by the Latin Tropic Monkeys orchestra. Shibui, situated in Santa Cruz and led by chef Gerardo Cruz, invites you to celebrate this Christmas with two unique menus that blend the true essence of Japanese cuisine with the festive spirit, offering a distinctive Christmas experience in the heart of Tenerife for 90 euros per person.

Returning to La Recova to conclude this overview of today’s dinner options. Their prices are more reasonable than they appear. Black potatoes priced at 10.90 euros and avocados at three euros. A Christmas Eve meal designed so that any leftovers can be enjoyed on Christmas Day.

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