The “River of Adeje”, found within the Barranco del Infierno area, is not only a natural feature of Tenerife but also a historical testament that has influenced the lives of the communities in the southern region for centuries. This watercourse (the closest term, as there are no rivers in the toponymy of the Canary Islands) situated in the Villa de Adeje, has been essential for the survival, agricultural progress, and prosperity of the municipality.
A crucial component for the region’s prosperity, its significance has gone beyond the simply natural, evolving into a symbol of local history and culture. It has drawn tourists and inquisitive visitors owing to its immense visual appeal and the profound mystique enveloping this area of Adeje. So much so that El Barranco del Infierno became the second most visited site on the Island, following Teide National Park, until it was closed to the public in 2009.
Fertility in a dry landscape
The contrast between the Adeje valley and the drier terrains of southern Tenerife is remarkable. While much of the south experiences aridity, the Barranco del Infierno stands out as a source of vitality, providing a stream that nourishes the adjacent lands. However, this isn’t the sole spring in the southern region; up to three more streams can be found: the Abona River, the Chasna River (which flows through the San Lorenzo Valley and reaches Las Galletas), and the Fasnia River.
The waters of the “Adeje River” have enabled lush vegetation to prosper near the ravine. Ancient chroniclers, including many anonymous writers who explored the area centuries prior, noted “a valley teeming with fig, pear, and plum trees, along with plants cultivated along the water channels.” This richness in fertility, past and present, is a crucial asset in a region where water is a rare resource.
Historian Pascual Madoz, in the mid-nineteenth century, already pointed out the significance of water in Adeje: “The terrain presents a dreary and monotonous view where the hills border the Valley; elsewhere, it is delightful, showcasing some of the richest lands on this side of the island, with sufficient irrigation water supplied by the ravine known as Hell, which descends from the highest mountain areas.”
Nelson Díaz Frías, a key historian in understanding the identity of southern Tenerife and the official chronicler of the municipality of Vilaflor de Chasna, highlights that “for every community, water is the focal point of existence. This fact shapes the entire socio-economic history of the municipality of Adeje. Hence, this stream holds great significance for the chronicles of the Adeje community.” His remarks remind us of the vital role water has played in fostering the region’s growth, not only fostering agricultural fertility but also serving as “a factor that has influenced the culture and identity of Adeje.”
A Guanche legacy
Prior to the Castilian conquest, the Guanches recognised the centrality of Barranco del Infierno within their society. In ancient times, the areas surrounding this locale were inhabited by communities that settled close to the watercourse. Historical records suggest that the availability of water was essential for Adeje’s rise as a significant Guanche kingdom, with the Guanche capital believed to have been located here. During this period, the Guanches were guided by the Mencey Gran Tinerfe (who is thought to have lived in the late 14th century), who unified the mencey powers before the Island divided into the nine menceyatos.
After the conquistadors arrived, Adeje sustained its importance due to its water resources, which enabled agricultural and local industrial activities, such as sugar cane cultivation in the 16th century.
Nelson Díaz Frías notes that “the initial documents where the Adeje River is mentioned date back to the time when conquerors allocated lands, water, and other resources.” Among the recipients of these distributions was Don Diego, the final mencey of Adeje, who was granted land and water rights in the region in 1505. Díaz Frías claims that “Adeje was established as a Guanche kingdom due to its abundant water supply,” indicating that this resource was the primary reason for the location of the Guanche capital.
Hydraulic infrastructure and growth
Through the centuries, the water from Barranco del Infierno not only sustained agriculture but also propelled the urban development of Adeje. The first water channeling structures emerged in colonial times, featuring ingenious canals that directed water from the ravine to the town. One such canal, still visible near the waterfall known as La Tornadera, played a pivotal role in the town’s existence.
Nelson Díaz Frías further elaborates that “the water was directed via channels made from Tea wood to the town, reaching public areas for community usage. They established a public point for the town to access water,” demonstrating the significance of an organised water supply for Adeje’s inhabitants.
A lasting resource
Despite the changing climate in the area, with many claiming it used to “rain more”, the Adeje River continues to symbolise vitality in the southern region of Tenerife. The ravine still draws visitors due to its natural allure, characterised by stunning rock formations and waterfalls, while preserving the link between water and local history. Although the original irrigation systems have been substituted with more modern ones, the legacy of the Adeje River persists, serving as a reminder to all visitors of the critical role water plays in establishing and sustaining civilisations.
“It used to rain more”
Nelson Díaz Frías emphasizes, “people often say it used to rain more” and acknowledges that it is quite likely that “the riverbed was much fuller in the past,” suggesting that the reduction in flow has influenced the historical narrative of the region, even though the river maintains its importance. Historical records reveal that nearly five decades ago, the southern area experienced nine lengthy years of drought, a situation that severely impacted the region and its resources, including the “Río de Adeje” waterfall.
In contemporary times, the Barranco del Infierno remains a natural treasure, a testament to human resilience in adapting and thriving amidst harsh conditions. This “river of life”, which has nourished generations of inhabitants in the southern region, continues to serve as a significant landmark for the historical consciousness and prospective advancement of Adeje. As Nelson Díaz Frías aptly concludes, “for every human community, water is the central point of life”, perfectly encapsulating the intrinsic relationship between the Adeje River and its people. Like the Euphrates and Tigris rivers in the Near East, which contributed to the establishment of humanity’s earliest settled communities, the “Adeje River” has played a similar role in its own region.
