A peculiar mural embellishes one of the walls of Tegueste Sports City Los Laureles: “Kiss me until Tegueste has a beach”. Not only does this catch the eye of passersby, but it also delves into the intriguing relationship the municipality has with the sea and its steadfast desire to maintain independence.
Only three municipalities in Tenerife lack access to the sea: Vilaflor, El Tanque and Tegueste. Furthermore, Tegueste is enclosed by La Laguna, a city it could have been part of, along with Santa Cruz de Tenerife, yet the Tegueste community chose otherwise. This decision has been reiterated throughout its history.
Efforts to Annex La Laguna
In the 19th century, various municipalities surrounding the two largest towns on the island vanished, such as Tejina, Valle de Guerra, and Punta del Hidalgo. As stated by María Jesús Luis Yanes, archivist of Tegueste Town Hall, reasons for this included “lack of resources or illiteracy among the residents”, as seen with the aforementioned municipalities. Nonetheless, Tegueste consistently declined to be annexed by La Laguna.
According to Luis Yanes, in 1838, interim mayor José María Rodríguez suggested the union with La Laguna for the first time. The rationale was simple: lack of funds to remunerate the secretary. However, the community swiftly rallied to collect the necessary amount. It marked the initial instance of refusal towards La Laguna.
Merely three years later, the Provincial Council endeavoured once more to consolidate various municipalities, Tegueste included, due to economic hardships. With a populace of 1,000 inhabitants, Tegueste asserted that “the current rights of this town to access the waters, pastures and mountains under its ownership are well-defined and respected.” While financial constraints at times still posed challenges regarding the secretary’s salary, communal contributions bridged this gap. Tegueste upheld their dissent.
Residents Persist in Resisting
In 1852, councillor Agustín Hernández journeyed to Santa Cruz de Tenerife with intentions to disband the Council, yet upon learning of this plan, 40 residents once again rebuffed this proposal.
Voting procedures differed significantly from contemporary practices, with only the “eight largest taxpayers” participating in a vote that year as per the mayor’s request. The outcome resulted in a 5-3 victory, but surprisingly, a few days later, the vote was revisited. This time, both councillors and taxpayers had a say. However, dissent prevailed once more, with a 9-4 vote against annexation. Interestingly, Agustín Hernández altered his stance, shifting from advocating for a positive vote to supporting rejection.
Nonetheless, the Provincial Council expressed discontent with the voting method or, even worse, its outcomes, as elucidated by María Jesús Luis Yanes. The resolution? Another round of voting. “A subsequent vote ensued, this time involving double the number of taxpayers compared to the Corporation, possibly because it was evident that City Council members would oppose it”? Regardless, the outcome remained unaltered: with 17 opposing votes against merely 5 in favour, Tegueste stood firm in its independence.
The records maintained by the northern council document the rationales presented during the vote, whereby the “absence of suitable individuals to hold office” was the prevailing argument among those advocating for annexation to La Laguna.
Mountains – particularly significant to Pedro Álvarez -, waters, and roads were the principal topics deliberated in the meeting minutes, which could have prompted annexation. Nonetheless, to this day, Tegueste remains an autonomous municipality.
Tegueste and its Maritime Ties
Why are boat-shaped carts a feature of festivities in an inland municipality? These boats form an integral part of the town’s annual patron saint celebrations in honour of San Marcos and Nuestra Señora de los Remedios.
The boats of Tegueste are deeply ingrained in the town’s religious and festive traditions, dating back to ancient times. Emblematic of its identity, these boats interweave centuries of history and heritage. The initial publication in the Bulletin of the Municipal Archive of Tegueste notes the presence of administrative scripts dating back to around 1600 that reference this tradition.
The Prebendary Antonio Pereira Pacheco, parish priest of Tegueste from 1842 to 1858, in his manuscript History of Teguestementions the enduring practice of livery, dances, accolades, and boats. He depicts the festival ambiance, detailing “small inns animating the square, pre-festival fireworks, countryside delicacies, and, above all, the ancient tradition of oxen-drawn boats parading on the eve and during the morning procession the following day, an event that captivates and draws people together, suggesting that without it, the festival attendance would undoubtedly dwindle.”
According to Agustín González, deputy director of DIARIO DE AVISOS, various interpretations exist for this phenomenon: “These countryside-style boats, hauled by oxen teams, equipped with wheels to simulate sailing, are either emblematic of a maritime heritage or a manifestation of the anxiety evoked by sightings of sails on the horizon in past eras. Historical accounts, dating back to pre-Hispanic times, reveal how this visual stimuli heightened tension within the community, hinting at potential invasions, pirate attacks, or expeditions targeting slaves, livestock, along with threats of fires and pillaging.”
The Misconception Surrounding Tegueste’s Beaches
A search for “Tegueste beaches” online often directs users to pages, predominantly catering to tourism, which predominantly mention Jóver (Tejina) or Benijo beaches. These nearby locations to Tegueste have inadvertently led to occasional, noticeable confusion.
This arises from a marketing approach that may confuse visitors upon their arrival in the picturesque town of Tegueste.
Sports journalist David Bernabéu, post the debut of Tenerife native Pedri with the Spanish national football team, uncovered…
The team suggested that the celebration should take place “on the Tegueste beach,” sparking reactions from many users.
Making your debut as a starter for Spain and doing it as if you were having a vermouth on the beach in Tegueste at 12 noon. Pedro González. Pedri. A chosen one.
— David Bernabeu Reverter (@DBR8) March 28, 2021
The rationale behind the mural
However, revisiting the initial text: what is the purpose of the mural that requests kisses until Tegueste gets a beach? Behind this idea lies one of the most captivating cultural festivals in Tenerife.
Established in 2016, Soplo de Letras was created “with the purpose of embracing everything that words can reach, and it has successfully achieved this.” It advocates for a geographical dispersal of the artistic and cultural sphere, promoting the local, personal, and professional growth of residents from various municipalities through culture.
“The Soplo must act as a platform for all these professionals, showcasing every piece related to words, stimulating personal and intimate interactions between creators and an engaged audience,” as highlighted by the creators. Infotegueste.com. The mural was completed by @betoalaboquilla.
