The boat trip of Our Lady of Carmen and San Telmo last Tuesday was just as the accounts depicted it yesterday: immense, magnificent, thrilling (as always) and on a splendid evening bathed in sunlight, amidst the profound emotions of many followers and the unstoppable party spirit of believers and non-believers who commenced the celebration early and extended it well into the night, in some instances. Naturally, it was much quieter compared to previous years due to the remarkable incidents that led to the alteration of the route, the surprising deviation of the statues as they paraded along Mequinez Street (Ranilla pura) past the junction with Pérez Zamora to witness the fireworks display above the beach of the pier, followed by a return to the church of La Peña amidst a resounding, profound, eerie silence… Harsh yet beautiful at the same time. Once more, death and life intertwined deeply.
Many were aware that this boat journey would be unique as an emotional tribute was planned in memory of Carli, the cherished neighbour who unfortunately passed away on 26 June. And so it transpired. Just after 10:00 pm, the Virgin did something unprecedented that not even the oldest residents could recall: she deviated from her route significantly to approach Carli’s bar and his family home on the western side of Perdomo Street. A large crowd awaited there (word spread and even made it to local television) and, amid cheers, applause, calls for Carli, the presentation of flower bouquets to his wife, Yeya, and his daughter, Carla, and the emotional bearers gently swaying the image that held such significance for this family, the intensity of the moment multiplied infinitely.
A few profound minutes that will go down in history, with Carli’s family and friends on the balcony of his home, overwhelmed by emotion in a blend, in this instance brilliant, of farewell, life, and deep gratitude. A balcony from where a large panel was displayed featuring Carli’s visage, images of the Lord of the Great Power, the Virgin of Carmen and San Telmo alongside others of his cherished dock in El Puerto with the inscription “With us forever”. A panel anchored by two enormous fishing weights at the bottom corners to prevent it from soaring away, a perfect metaphor for his profound connection with the sea and its bounty. Spectacular. Genuine. Goosebump-inducing. And with Yeya and Carla presenting bouquets of flowers to the Virgin to continue her nocturnal journey on her throne. Undoubtedly, the Virgin bid farewell to Carli in grand style, as he truly deserved.
And so the bearers continued: turning back towards Mequinez right at the edge of the La Pandorga restaurant (operated by a Chinese family well assimilated in a diverse and inclusive city despite various challenges) to pass by La Pescadería (renowned for its fish and seafood), Tasquita de Min (a local semi-legend for many years) and the rear of Alteza.
It was at this point, after crossing paths with Pérez Zamora Street and with the expansive mural of human figures seemingly stretching into infinity in the background of the procession, that everything came to a halt. The Virgin did not proceed past the sports shop on the corner, and confusion rippled through the crowd. Certainly, numerous families were anticipating her passage in their homes on this street, on San Felipe and elsewhere, to shower her with flowers and fireworks and offer her serenades, but only a handful from this vicinity managed to do so, realising or already forewarning that the situation was serious and likely to result in the procession being called off or rerouted, prompting them to at least scatter petals in her path.
The cause was profoundly distressing and sudden: Fabián León Tejera, a 29-year-old renowned for his street dance performances with a black helmet (known in the community as Flubber or Nastyfastpack) and resident of the blue house (number 7) of La Placeta, a charming corner housing not just the famed Italian restaurant Don Camilo, El Patio and the Ágora (an apt name indeed) but also inviting one to sit and unwind, tragically passed away moments earlier at that very corner.
Everything came to a standstill. A devastating blow. A completely unforeseen tragedy that inevitably necessitated a change of plans as relatives and neighbours grappled with the incomprehensible, an unattainable feat (the spot where he was last seen had blue petals scattered on the ground, flowers, and an image of the Virgin).
The procession halted for approximately 25 minutes before the city council announced via social media that it was cancelled, and the images would be reverently turned back and escorted to the dock for the fireworks display. The fireworks, seemingly more extravagant than in prior years, were juxtaposed with the shock and sorrow prevailing on a vessel that, twice in one night, was etching itself into history books due to unparalleled occurrences.
Muted Farewell
No raucous revelry, no melodies… Just reverence. The procession back to the parish church along Santo Domingo Street unfolded amidst a silence that, though a trope, resounded deeply, only punctuated by applause and a standing ovation precisely at one in the morning as the Virgin made her grand entrance into a crowded La Peña church, resonating with a heartfelt Salve. And rightfully so.
The unexpected appearance of San Telmo and the Virgen del Carmen was followed by the closure of establishments that in another year would have kept the festivities alive (Carli’s bar, the churrería Perdomo, El Fragata, Hannen…), but this was a distinctive, sorrowful, momentous voyage… Nevertheless, the merrymaking continued in bars and clubs until the permissible hours at each venue; indeed, it was vibrant at locations such as Magum (brimming with patrons), La Mansión, or El Blanco, which was quite commonplace as many were unaware of what had occurred, yet a consensus was reached yesterday on the dock and in numerous spots that this had been an extraordinary, sombre journey… To be chronicled.
Furthermore, there were other unfortunate incidents, such as Aaron’s stabbing (another neighbour) at the fair, altercations between boats at the commencement of the journey (inexcusable, certainly), additional skirmishes near Mango at the float and elsewhere, but never before had the route of a procession with 103 years of tradition been altered twice, first to pay tribute to a dearly departed neighbour and then due to a sudden and grievous loss for which we extend our heartfelt condolences to his loved ones.
