The town of Igueste de San Andrés, nestled amidst the slopes of the Anaga Massif and just 15 kilometres from the centre of the Tenerife capital, holds one of the best-preserved treasures in the historical relationship between Canary Islands and Cuba. Mango, along with other tropical fruits, is an emblem of one of the areas on the island that still maintains its agricultural tradition. Soledad Álvarez, better known locally as Solita, was born, raised, and has lived in Igueste her whole life. This Tuesday, on her eightieth birthday, she showcases the first mangoes of this season at her farm, located in the El Cascajal enclave, in the midlands. This crop not only dominates her orchard but also those tended by most inhabitants. At this time of the year, the greenery that characterises the typical postcard of the northeast of the island is complemented by the reddish and pink tones of the mango flower.
Decades ago, the first emigrants left for Cuba in search of fortune. From the other side of the Atlantic, they brought tropical fruits such as papaya, avocado, and mamey, although the main treasure for the people of Igueste is the mango. The passion for this crop is so strong that years ago, the locals created their own brand as a tribute: “100% mango, 100% Igueste”.
Solita, as she observes the first fruits sprouting, still green and of scarce size, mentions that in the past mangoes were highly valued because they were scarce. Now, in her case, since she does not commercialize them, she acknowledges that sometimes she and her husband, Manuel Morín, struggle to harvest the entire crop, which mainly takes place from July to September. After that, there is another flowering period, and if autumn is warm, there are mangoes again in October and November.
The tropical climate, a differentiating factor
The climate has been a differentiating factor for the agriculture of the region, as it closely resembles that of tropical areas. “Everything you plant here grows,” argues the farmer. Drought is the main problem currently faced by farmers in the area, who anxiously look to the sky awaiting rain to intensify the greenery of their valleys. Initially, the rounder and yellower mango took centre stage in Igueste, but now there are other varieties that have also gained popularity, such as the Venezuelan one, with a more oval shape and orange color.
“The taste of the original mango from Igueste is incomparable”
Solita admits that tastes have changed: “Now there are more people opting for the new ones because they have fewer fibers and are better for making smoothies.” However, the woman, who dedicates herself wholeheartedly to agriculture after her retirement, prefers the natural ones from the area. Their taste is incomparable, she concludes.