It has not been a good harvest. The effects of the persistent drought and the severe blow caused in the midland area by the fire that devastated the Island last August (which claimed the life of the historic chestnut tree of Las Siete Pernadas) have considerably reduced the production of chestnuts in the Acentejo region. In this sense, the member of the Rural Development Association for the conservation of the chestnut trees of Tenerife (CCT), Ángela Soller, is categorical: “This year there are very few,” she states with an evident tone of sadness. Despite everything, the City Council of La Victoria insists on claiming the heritage value of this unique product, and to this end it has scheduled a set of activities throughout the month of November with this fruit as the axis, which includes a gastronomic ritual by establishments in the municipality. .
In fact, throughout this weekend it has developed in the Plaza Rodríguez Lara of the northern municipality Crafts and Chestnut Fair, which among other activities included the participation of the chefs Manu Regalado, from the Truly Asia restaurant, in Tacoronte, and Richard Etherington, from Gurea, located in El Sauzal, who made two tapas with chestnuts as an ingredient to the delight of the public’s palates, who praised the flavor of both proposals unanimously. The first, a fried won ton dough that enclosed a combination of sweet Canarian and Burgos blood sausage, wrapping a chestnut, and seasoned with a sweet and sour sauce, based on chili, garlic and ginger. The second, presented in a small glass, contained a shredded beef, in a smoked chestnut juice, with a touch of Moroccan spices. Two delights.
During the week, the Scottish chef based in Tenerife gave a workshop in which he displayed the culinary possibilities of this fruit, with dishes such as a breast coated with chestnut jam; chestnut and sardine croquettes; a Canarian ranch with the presence of this product or a creamy rice with chestnuts and Brussels sprouts.
Its gastronomic possibilities are endless., perhaps as many as the imagination is capable of encompassing and eating them toasted, cooked or in stew is still common. The recipe book is full of recognizable dishes where it is the protagonist, such as Fried rabbit in salmorejo with chestnuts and sweet potatoas part of a goat stewnext to fish such as grouper and cod or confit, accompanying cheeses. It is very popular to accompany chestnuts with new wines and in fact it was always a nut present in many parties and celebrations. It was consumed on the occasion of All Saints’ Day, they were essential in San Andrés; At Easter, chestnuts were eaten as a festive treat or given to children along with an orange or other fruit. At Carnivals they ate the last dried and smoked chestnuts that still remained.
It was the conquerors who introduced the cultivation of the chestnut, which as a product prior to the potato, killed many times of famine. While there was a subsistence agrarian economy in Acentejo, chestnuts supplemented the diets between the months of October to December and, in addition, they represented help to the family economy. From their exchange, foods that were not produced in that area were obtained. (onions, garlic, salted and fresh fish, baskets and other artisan products), through a barter that forced women to make long journeys, carrying chestnuts on the way out and other products on the way back, from the different municipalities from Acentejo to Punta del Hidalgo, San José, al Amparo and other places. From the sale of chestnuts they got money with which to pay for household needs, clothes for the children, course books or gifts from the Three Kings or to cover some other expense.
Wood was obtained from the tree which was used in the construction of houses, to make furniture, basketry, in the construction of ships, etc. They took advantage of everything the tree gave, even the dry branches that were used as firewood, the dry leaves for the animals’ bedding, and the very small fruits for their food. During the 60s and 70s of the last century, there was a diversification of economic activities linked to the development of the tourism sector in Puerto de La Cruz, the development of port activity in Santa Cruz and the arrival of money sent by emigrants. to Venezuela. That change in Acentejo meant the abandonment of full-time agricultural activity and a change in the people’s lifestyle.
To date, a total of 38 different varietal denominations have been located on the Islands.of which 21 are located in Tenerife, 17 in La Palma, 6 in Gran Canaria, 2 in El Hierro and 1 in La Gomera, varieties with the same name appearing on the different islands.
In Tenerife there are two large areas of chestnut cultivation.; one that extends from La Orotava to La Esperanza, on the north side, the most humid of the Island, and another near Arafo, on the south side, very dry and exposed to the wind. The range of altitudes in which the chestnut tree is cultivated is located between 800 and 1,100 meters above sea level. It is a species that is located mostly in the midlands of the Island, as a transition zone between the mountains and the vineyard and potato strips, although, to a large extent, its cultivation is especially associated with potato crops. color and rotations with cereals and vegetables.
Location and varieties
- Of room. Typical of the municipalities of Arafo, La Matanza and El Sauzal; With good flavor, it is the most appreciated by farmers, since it is very easy to peel.
- Mulattoes. Widely distributed in Tenerife, with early production and rather small fruits that are difficult to peel, although highly appreciated for stewing.
- Araferas. Located mainly in the Orotava Valley, Pinolere and Aguamansa. Large in size, sweet in flavor and not very difficult to peel. Its collection is complicated due to the hedgehog’s long spines.
- Round. It is located in the municipalities of El Sauzal, La Matanza and La Victoria. It stands out for its small size; Its flavor is sweet and it is consumed, above all, toasted.
- Castagrande. It is located in the municipalities of El Sauzal, La Matanza and La Victoria. Of the largest chestnuts, it is one of the favorites when stewing or baking.
- Polegre. It is grown in the municipalities of La Victoria and Santa Úrsula. It is medium-sized, highly appreciated for its ease of peeling.
Tenerife chestnuts are part of the island’s gastronomic and cultural legacy. We are talking about a crop associated with others, not extensive, but very peculiar due to the shape and character it gives to mid-range landscapes.